Since most restoration centers around the animals, we will use them as the example. Chariots and other carved work would be approached in much the same way. This is very basic and general information. Each situation is different and may require other procedures. Carousel animals and artifacts can be found in any condition from excellent to barely identifiable. First, you need to answer two questions: What is the significance of this piece? Carousel animals that are extremely rare or have somehow survived with the original paint intact, likely should not be restored beyond simple repairs. These may be most important preserved as-is as a rare example of carousel art. What is the intended use of the piece? Are you restoring animals for an operating carousel? If so, they need to be both beautiful and durable. You must also consider future maintenance issues so future minor damage can be easily repaired. If you are restoring for display only, you have more options as to paint and finish. Carousel animals can have many problems that must be addressed in restoration. Some may have many coats of paint that must be carefully removed. Some may have damaged wood or missing parts. Some may have had amateur repairs including nails, tin patches and thick layers of automotive body putty covering major damage. Carousel animals were made by taking many smaller pieces of lumber and gluing them into the rough shape of the animal. The body is usually a hollow box with legs and neck attached. The grain of the wood is aligned for both strength and ease in carving. Where the wood changes direction, such as the legs, dowels were used to add strength. If you find nails, screws, or other metal, it represents a repair and, if possible, should be removed and replaced with wood. Other than the utter destruction of fire, the greatest enemy of carousel animals is water. Not only does moisture loosen the original glue, but it can cause the wood to warp and leads to wood rot. Carousel animals that have been allowed to get wet are often the ones needing the most extensive restoration. Water also raises the grain of the wood and leads to distortion of the carved detail. It is best to avoid using water in the restoration process. Beginning the process: Once an animal is selected for restoration, the first order of business is to remove the paint. There may be very little paint or it may be many many coats built up over time. While more work is required to remove more paint, thick paint does tend to protect the original carving. Paint removal is most often done with chemical paint stripper. This is a chemical solution that will soften layers of paint until they can be easily removed. Use a good quality stripper and allow plenty of time between application and removing the softened paint to let the stripper do its work. SAFETY NOTE: Chemical strippers are powerful solvents. You should use stripper resistant gloves (available at paint stores) and use where there is good ventilation. The Goo that you remove is toxic and flammable. Use newspaper or drop clothes to catch it and dispose of it carefully. Depending on the thickness of the paint, you may need to apply stripper several times. Small brushes, spoons and clay sculpting tools can help you carefully dig into the carved detail to remove the softened paint. Avoid the use of sharp tools that may damage the wood. It is better to use more stripper than more force to remove thick paint. The ultimate goal is to protect the carving. If your animal has glass jewels, carefully remove them, if possible, before stripper gets under them. Many will have a silvering on the back surface that will be destroyed by stripper. Missing or damaged glass eyes can be replaced with ones from a taxidermy supplier. If the animal has never been restored before, stripping will often reveal the original paint colors. Take pictures and record the colors as part of the history of this animal. Once the paint has been fully removed, you need to neutralize the stripper so that future coats of paint will not be attacked by its residue. Paint thinner (mineral spirits) is the best choice. Avoid the use of water as it will cause a variety of other problems. An alternative to chemical stripper is an electric heat gun. These can be very effective removing thick paint. . Practice to get a feel for how fast to keep the heat gun moving for good removal. SAFETY NOTE: Heat guns can generate air hot enough to start a fire. Care must be taken to keep the gun moving and avoid "over cooking" the paint Carousel horses commonly have lead-based paints on the older layers. Fumes from this paint can be dangerous. Do this work in an area with excellent ventilation. NEVER use furniture "dip" stripping, sand blasting or rotary power strippers as they will damage the carving detail; possibly beyond repair When all the paint has been removed, you get your best look at any underlying wood problems. How many joints are loose and need to be remade? How many screws and nails were added over the years? How many places does damaged, rotten, or missing wood need to be replaced and carved back to match the original? If you have many wood-related problems and do not have the skills to do the restoration, we recommend you call us for advice, and/or contact a local furniture repair person or a fine woodworker. These people should be familiar with older construction techniques and how to repair them. There are many excellent amatuer wood carvers around that would jump at the chance to work on carousel animals. Skill levels vary though. Be sure you are satisfied with simple repairs before you allow them to do more complex critical work. Once the wood is fully repaired, you are ready for the "putty and sanding" stage. This stage may take more time than all the others combined, but excellent workmanship here determines the ultimate quality of your paint job. Wood surfacing putty is used to fill the small irregularities in the wood and provide a very smooth surface for the primer and paint. White primer paint and high light levels will best reveal the imperfections. Putty the flaws, sand smooth to match the original surface, paint with primer and repeat until the surface is perfect! 40 or more hours of work at this stage is not unusual. A note about paint is in order. Many types of paint will work. If you are restoring for use on a carousel, very durable paints are necessary. Call us; we know some that work very well. The animal is usually coated with a clear finish as well, For display only, more of a variety of paints can be used. BE SURE to investigate the compatibility of your paints. Is the primer comparable with the color coats and if you do an overall clear coat, will it adhere well to the color coats? If any coating is not comparable with any other, the paint will peal off and your work will be ruined. In general, latex paints are not suitable for carousel animals. Choose your colors carefully. If on a carousel, how will these colors complimnet the other animals?. Use the paint to emphasize the carving. Shading colors around the muscles and head can make the animal come alive. Shading can be accomplished with brushes or with an air brush. Practice well before attempting this treatment. Restoration can be very rewarding work, but demands high skills and an appropriate and safe work environment. If you do not feel confident you can do a superb job, find help or you may consider contacting one of the many people who restore carousel animals as a business. If you have oil paintings as part of your
restoration project, you can contact a local art museum for appropriate
techniques for cleaning and preserving them. If you have a carousel mechanism to restore,
you may want to involve someone from an amusement ride business
to evaluate it for safety and reliability. You can also contact
the International Museum of Carousel Art
or Historic Carousels
Inc. for help with all phases of restoration.
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